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If you're having trouble, you may be pushing adjacent pins up past the shear line as you pick a pin, causing them to be overset even before they start to bind. Note that while many locks pick predominantly back to front or front to back, there are exceptions, and you may find that the binding pin stack "jumps around" from the back to the front to the middle and so on. Set/not-binding. The pin stack was already picked. While pins are usually set by raising the cut from the plug to the shear line, what is billiards they can also be picked by first oversetting the cut to within the shell and then lowering it to the shear line. When you're comfortable picking the three pin lock (in both directions) move on to a fourth pin, and when you've mastered that, a fifth and then a sixth. It's possible that the plug will turn as soon as you set the first pin; if this happens, it's because you inadvertently lifted the other pin with the shaft of your pick while you were working on the first one. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over.

The lock will never pick open in this state; you must release torque and start over. Your goal is to learn to do this with the absolute minimum amount of torque needed to bind the most misaligned pin enough to distinguish it from the other one. Note that these locks have been deliberately pinned with a short pin behind a long one. You'll need to be careful not to disturb the long pin when you push the short pin up. It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted. Because there are two independent shear lines, there is no way to control, or even tell, at which shear line a given pin stack sets. If pushed up, it eventually sets and the plug turns slightly (and the pin stack's state changes to set/not-binding). Finally, lift the pin that sets first very high before you apply torque. Now release torque and try again, but this time lift the pins as little as you can when you test them, while still distinguishing between the two states. Now re-apply torque and set the first binding pin.

They require special picking tools to manipulate the tumblers and apply torque. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset. Get in the habit of making a systematic "inventory" of the states of the pin stacks after you set each new pin. The pin stacks with regular pins will feel just as you'd expect, with a hard stop when the bottom pin hits the shear line. Spend a lot of time playing with the three pin lock so that you can recognize the pin states easily and naturally. Learn to pick this lock one pin at a time. Eventually, you'll be able to comfortably pick the locks with five and six pins installed. Eventually, you'll reach a point where the plug will turn ever so slightly and the pin will not go up any farther. Learn what a pin in that state feels like.

Anything smaller than a 10-foot table is not recommended because you will not be able to experience the game like you would on a larger table. For this exercise, you'll use your torque tool and pick on the two pin lock to put the pins in each of these states to learn what they feel like with your pick. For this exercise, you'll be continuing with the two pin AR1 lock. Do not assume that the next pin will be adjacent to the one you just set. Once you do this, one of the pins will be in the unset/binding state while the other (the one you set) will be in the set/not-binding state . Only one pin stack should be in a binding state at any given time, of course. As you progress, you should know the state of the lock at all times: which pins are set, which aren't, which one is binding. Once you've mastered the two pin lock and can distinguish reliably among pin states, you should have little trouble with a three pin lock. Continue with the AR1 lock board. Again, continue with the AR1 locks.